Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Travel Guide: Venice

 Venice is one of the most unique cities I have visited. How many cities float on log pillars after all? A major city that does not have a single car or street is just hard to fathom for those who have never been to this Italian locale.
(Canal view taken from a gondola)

I have spent more time completely lost in Venice than I wish to admit. Upon my first visit I spent over an hour looking for my hotel which ended up being just a block away from where I had first started out. I must have asked at least 10 locals to point me in the right direction. I'm not sure if they honestly did not know or if they got a kick out of sending me on a wild goose chase but, each of them pointed me in a different direction.  I challenge you to be prepared when you arrive and come with detailed directions to your accommodations.

As there are only narrow cobble stone passageways for streets, I highly recommend that you leave large rolling luggage at home. You will have a great deal of trouble rolling that luggage to your hotel. Then, once at the hotel you will be hard pressed to find an elevator. If they do have one, it will likely be the type of thing that is only large enough for you OR your bag, not both.

 (View from Rialto Bridge)

The first hour or so in Venice is a bit of a headache. You are overwhelmed by the beauty and the distinctive character of the city. However, you will have a bit of a fish out of water feeling as you have never had to navigate in a place such as this before. Every time I have been in Venice I have noticed this feeling amongst my travel companions. Once you find your hotel,  leave your bags and get out and start exploring, the anxiety is over and you will find yourself on cloud 9!

DIY Tour Guide:  

I am famous for traveling with a guide book. Yes I stick out like a sore thumb as a tourist but I am a well informed one! There is no need to guess at the age of a statue or wonder where the best coffee shop is located; all of the most important information is in your hand and has been vetted by travel pros! You will not need to pay for the audio guides in museums or guided tours of historical monuments - you have the book and it has all of the information you would get from a guide. I spend the first day or so in a new place exploring the must see, most visited, obvious places as listed in the guide book.

(Reading the gondolier a bit of shocking information about some famous Venetians from the guidebook)

Fodors, Rick Steve's, Lonely Planet, Eyewitness Travel - all are great and will do the trick. I usually check out everything the library has on the city I am visiting. I then scan over them and take just one or two on the actual trip. Once I hit the highlights from the book I have likely also found my bearings and will be able to get around the city more easily.  At that point I ditch the book and can spend the remainder of my time getting lost in shops, museums, side streets and restaurants I happen upon.

In Venice these books are indispensable. The maps in the books will save you time as you figure out how to navigate the maze of corridors and canals that is Venice. They will also save you money as you will not need to hire a guide.

While you are at the library (or book store) pick up a pocket Italian language guide. Make sure it includes information about food and wine. Everyone can order spaghetti and pizza but Italy has SO much more to offer! To get a real flavor for the local cuisine you may need to understand a little Italiano!

Getting Around:

The single most important thing to understand about Venice before you arrive is the Vaporetto system. The Vaporetto are public transportation boats that can move you around the city for a minimal cost. The Vaporetto is the equivalent of the subway or bus system in any other major city. Venice is a city of eighteen islands connected by 354 bridges and, again, they have no streets so no buses. You can buy a 1 day, 3 day or week pass for the Vaporetto. These are good for infinite rides within the time frame you have paid for. I was able to explore the main islands of Venice as well as outliers like Lido and Murano with my Vaporetto pass. Check out prices, schedules and routes online before you travel.

(A vaporetto boat docked at a stop near the Rialto Bridge)

Most any way you travel to Venice you will need to get from the main land into the city. The trains drop you off across the open water from the main part of the city. If you drive you will need to park your vehicle in a lot (I recommend the Tronchetto Parking area) and find water transportation into the city.

You can take the extremely pricy water taxis but I would suggest the public transportation.  You will most likely be approached by boat owners who want to offer to be your guide. That is always an option but, you never know who you are getting on a boat with and how much it will end up costing. The city is relatively easy to navigate by vaporetto especially if you have a good map and a travel guide book with you.

When traveling on public transportation in any part of Italy it is imperative that you validate your ticket before you ride. You will see small yellow or red boxes by the subway, vaporetto, train or bus stops. Slide your ticket into that box and it will time stamp your ticket. If you neglect to do this and you are stopped by authorities you will be subject to a steep fine! If you're confused, just watch the locals and do what they do (unless they jump off a bridge... I would not recommend doing that :) ).

Must See: 

  • Piazza San Marco - This is the main square in town and is one of the vaporetto stops. There is a massive church with all sorts of historical relics and significance. Your guide book will be able to fill you in on all of the details.  Make sure to inquire about the large horses outside and inside! 
(Views of San Marco)
  • Rialto Bridge - You can not miss it. Again, check the guide book for historical information. I highly recommend taking the vaporetto down the grand canal in both directions at various times during the day (sunrise, sunset, mid day, after dark...) as the light changes  on the Rialto Bridge and makes for unforgettable views and photo ops.
  • Glass Blowing on the Island of Murano - Venice is famous for its blown glass figurines. The island of Murano is where all of this originated. Go early in the day and you will be able to see Venetian artisans blowing the glass. Be aware that they stop working around 3pm. While you can still visit the shops on this island, after 3pm you will not be able to view the artists at work.
  • Lido island - Have you ever been on a cruise and joined in on a conga line on the lido deck? Well, this island is to blame for the famously named pool deck. It is the family friendly beach/party island. If you have a spare day, go out to Lido and enjoy the beach. Grab a cone of gelato and have a fantastic and relaxing day on the beach!
  • Fish Market - Each morning there is a fish market starting around sunrise. Get up early, get an Itallian coffee and pastry before heading out to the fish market. You will peruse the days catch with local restauranteurs.  Ask the fishermen what is in season and order it later that night for dinner!
  • Drinks - Venice is located in the Veneto wine region. The crown jewel of this region is Amarone. It can be expensive but it is an amazing wine and must be tasted while you are in the area. Another alcoholic beverage that can not be missed is the Belini. This blend of prosecco (sparkling white wine/Italian champagne)  and peach puree is a Venetian tradition!
  • Gondola ride - You kind of have to... The cost of a 45 minute ride starts around 90 euros in the off season and goes up from there and you have to pay extra to get the gondolier to sing.  If you are trying to save some money, pair up with another couple or family and share a ride. The gondolas can hold 6 to 8 people and you can just divide the cost amongst yourselves. Also, I suggest taking a bottle of wine with you and enjoying it on your ride (I do turn into a bit of a lush as soon as I hit the Italian border so, you can disregard that suggestion if you do not share my love of Italian wines #PurpleTeeth).
(Canal view from the bow of a gondola)
There is so much to be written about this fantastic destination. However, the best advice I can give you is to get out and explore it on your own. You will find some little cafe or resturant that will make your trip memorable and uniquely yours.  My friends and I wound up at a James Taylor concert in the middle of a public piazza in the pouring rain. "Oh I've seen fire and I've seen rain..." has never been more moving! We then stopped in for a drink at a random bar near our hotel and found that it was the after work hang out for the gondoliers. We were the only ones in there not in striped shirts and straw hats. I hope your time in Venice is just as exciting and memorable!




Thursday, January 16, 2014

The best part of being back in the USA: FOOD!

I can not stop eating. There are so many foods from home that I have not had the privilege of tasting for far too long. Here is my list, in no particular order, of Southern American goodies of which I have been deprived during my 3 years overseas:  
  1. Krispy Kreme Donuts - I found a small kiosk in a low-end airport outside of London that was selling Krispy Kremes for £8.00 for a box of six. That's about $13.00 for donuts. It was highway robbery but I paid it... they weren't even "HOT NOW".  Other than this one, price gouged, experience I have been without my favorite sugary treats for far too long!  Until yesterday when I ate 2 cream filled glazed Krispy Kremes then brushed the flaky sugar crumbs off of my lips and went in for a 3rd. #NoShame Additionally, did you know there is an app that tells you when nearby Krispy Kremes have their "HOT NOW" sign on? #ILoveYouAmerica
  2. Cheese Straws - This southern party staple with there subtle spice and crunchy goodness have not yet found a niche in the German market, much to my chagrin. While these are usually best when homemade, I have no idea how and have honestly never tried.  I came across a bag of them at Publix the other morning and they are just as good! Check out Mook Mills Cheese Straws if you need to get your fix! 
  3. Bar-B-Que - This post would be null and void without this inclusion. I once watched a History Channel presentation on the history of BBQ.  It was very informative and I highly suggest you look this up if interested. The bottom line: different parts of the country have different ways to do their "Que"! 'Round these parts, vinegar based, pork shoulder bar-b-que reigns supreme. And amongst the highly skilled butchers and smokers who produce this porky gold, Whitt's Bar-B-Que is king! My order: BBQ Sandwich with mayo only, small bag of plain Golden Flake chips, 1 pint of sweet tea. Which leads me to my next point:
  4. Sweet Tea -  It may just be brown (extremely) sugary water to outsiders, but for those of us indoctrinated to believe this is the only way to drink tea, it is one of life's little pleasures. Here's some simple math for y'all: Late Spring + Porch Sitting + Sweet Tea = Everything that is Good about the South
    *Photo credit to No.2 Pencil - find their sweet tea recipe here
  5.  Gravy & Biscuits - I can not even begin to describe my love affair with this food combination. And it hurts me to admit it but, I think Cracker Barrel comes about as close to perfection as one can in the gravy and biscuits department. Please don't tell me they pack it full of MSG or it comes from a can or something - I don't want to know, at least not this week -just let me enjoy it! Also, let's not mention this to my mother. A good southern woman's biscuits being second fiddle to a national restaurant chain is not news I need you to break to her, OK? 
  6. Holiday Dressing - NOBODY and I mean not anyone, anywhere, ever, makes dressing like my mother. She has this recipe that was my grandmother's and before that, it possibly came from Reader's Digest - we have no idea. It takes about 2 days to execute and results in a flavor that cannot be matched. And yes dressing as in turkey and dressing. If you think "stuffing" is the appropriate accessory for your holiday meal, well I understand that is what you were raised on and you just don't know any better, but you owe your taste buds more.  Stop by next Thanksgiving and let me prove to you that you've been living a lie! Mom made some and we had it as one of my first meals at home the other night - I missed the holidays this year (and the last 3 years) and therefore missed out on, what is probably, my favorite meal of the year (this redeems me from the statements made in #5 right?).
There's more, so much more but these items are on the top of my list. Close runners up include chess pie, Chick-Fil-A, deli sandwiches of all shapes, forms and fashions, iced sugar cookies and actual Mexican food. Basically I'm binging and will attempt to regain control next week. I'm giving myself a 5 pound allowance on this one. How often do you  move home from a foreign country after all? 

 I can't believe I took a break from eating to type all of that...